The other white meat, the campaign had went in the early 2000s.

In my foodspotting amazement, I indulged myself in San Francisco’s love of pork from sweet breads to pork belly to sliced bacon. And then Bacon Camp.

What is up with the love of this thing…the pig?

Charlotte loved the pig. It is a rolling mass of fat, satisfied messing about in mud. It is the face of the so-called swine flu, emphasized in the pig parading about during bay to breakers. Then during many of the artisinal underground markets, people savored the richness of pork belly in buns—a recipe that hipsters loved from Momofuku.

It was annoying.

When cooked…even when slowly cooked…unlike chicken or beef, the meat doesn’t become tender. It stays together…like one block of a thing. The fat is what makes vegetarians turn when they smell bacon. Bacon on its own? It’s nothing. When wrapped around so many things…it can be something.